In a dusty grove of old shade trees on the outskirts of Kyongju, South Korea, lies a curious monument to the tremendous cultural refinement and ultimate demise of one of Asia's great civilizations. More than a thousand years ago, kings and courtiers of Korea's Shilla Dynasty gathered here in the sumptuous palace garden of P'osokchong to play an erudite drinking game, seated around a 70-foot granite water trough looped into the outline of an abalone — a shape also suggestive, some historians say, of female genitalia. From his position at the head of the waterway, the king would recite a line of poetry and release a floating wine cup in the stream of water that flowed through the trough. Any guest who failed to compose a matching verse before the wine drifted past him was obliged to drain the cup.

The garden of P'osokchong has since lost its luster, and the royal pavilion that once stood here is long gone, but travelers can still pause at the buckled remains of the old stone waterway and reflect on a time when this small South Korean city was a dominant force in East Asian political and cultural development.

The Shilla kingdom began in the southeastern corner of the Korean peninsula around the time of Julius Caesar and lasted until a century after the death of Charlemagne, spanning almost 900 years and ultimately expanding over an area roughly equivalent to modern South Korea. A rigid caste system governed Shilla society, with the upper classes extracting heavy taxes from the commoners to support their extravagant and scholarly lifestyle. By the seventh and eighth centuries, Shilla's educated elite had made great strides in art, architecture, science and technology, erecting magnificent palaces and temples in and around Kyongju and engaging in extensive economic and cultural exchanges with China and Japan. But while Shilla aristocrats were blithely indulging in garden parties and poetry competitions, the top-heavy feudal system was already beginning to crumble around them. Peasant uprisings in the ninth century led to the establishment of two rival states. Tax revenues declined as disgruntled farmers abandoned their fields, and in 935, the last of the Shilla kings, bankrupt and lacking a viable power base, surrendered his throne.

Today, Kyongju is a city reborn. Neglected by subsequent Korean dynasties and later pillaged by invading armies from Mongolia and Japan, the splendor of Shilla's golden age had been all but wiped from the map by the time the Republic of Korea was established in 1948. In recent years, however, ongoing archaeological digs have uncovered thousands of artifacts from the period, and faithful restoration work has brought a number of Shilla edifices back to life. With the construction of modern resorts and recreational facilities, the city has become a top destination for domestic tourism — and a requisite field trip for South Korean children, as I discovered during cherry blossom season last April when it seemed that every school in the republic had evacuated its classrooms and dispatched the students to Kyongju for a jolly romp through the region's bounty of historical monuments and archaeological museums.

Within the city of Kyongju are a number of sites accessible on foot or by rented bicycle, including dozens of gently sloping funeral mounds that mark the tombs of Shilla kings and nobles. Like the pharaohs of ancient Egypt, Shilla kings were buried with food, clothing and other baggage they might need in the afterlife, and artifacts from some of the tombs are displayed at the well-organized Kyongju National Museum nearby. Among the tombs clustered in the Tumuli Park near the center of town is Ch'onmach'ong, the Heavenly Horse Tomb, which was excavated in 1973 and is now open to visitors to show how the burial mounds were constructed. Other Shilla sites in the downtown area include the Ch'omsongdae Observatory, a mathematically precise stone tower built in the seventh century as a platform for monitoring the heavens; a stone ice house adjacent to the site where Shilla's principle royal castle once stood; and Anpachi Pond, the site of a seventh-century palace and pleasure garden where several large pavilions have been reconstructed.

Farther afield, enough tombs, temples and pagodas are scattered about the farmland and mountains surrounding Kyongju to overwhelm even the most avid sightseer. Topping the list is an impressive pair of Buddhist shrines, Pulguksa Temple and the Sokkuram Grotto, which share a coveted spot on UNESCO's World Heritage List. They also share a rather fantastic creation myth, which surely must have inspired banner headlines in the supermarket tabloids of the day. Both structures were commissioned in the middle of the eighth century by a wealthy and influential Shilla statesman named Kim Tae-Song, who, according to legend, claimed to have vivid memories of his previous life as a child of peasant parentage. Reincarnated into an aristocratic family, Kim sought out the poor woman who bore him in his past life and invited her into his wealthy household — then ordered the construction of two elaborate temples in honor of his two mothers. Kim's legendary claim to peasant roots reeks of tawdry political manipulation, to be sure, but the temples themselves are pure magic.

Pulguksa is a well-ordered complex of gardens, pagodas and pavilions arranged over a gently sloping hillside about 10 miles southeast of Kyongju city. Most of the current structures are 1970s reproductions of the original eighth-century architecture, but the restoration was accomplished using authentic methods and materials, and when the late afternoon sun slanting across the valley casts an ethereal glow on the meticulously crafted and intricately painted woodwork, the timeless spirit of Pulguksa is genuinely moving.

From Pulguksa, a winding road leads up the forested flanks of Mount T'oham to the Sokkuram Grotto, an intimate domed chamber built of massive granite blocks and embedded partially into the eastern slope of the mountain. The focal point of the temple is an elegant 11-foot statue of Buddha, seated on a lotus-shaped pedestal and surrounded by striking relief carvings of Bodhisattvas, protective deities and Buddhist disciples. A pair of decorative pillars and a gracefully arched vestibule define the entrance to the circular inner chamber, and a wooden pavilion of recent construction provides access to a viewing area in front of the grotto.

Sadly, this masterpiece of Asian devotional art has been loved almost to death: Botched restoration work by the Japanese during their occupation of Korea earlier this century caused irreparable damage to the structure, and it's difficult to appreciate the sublime geometry and artistry of the shrine while squinting through the shiny glass shield that protects it from exhaled moisture. Add to that the challenge of holding your ground against the tide of visitors jostling through the narrow viewing area and you're likely to find yourself beating a hasty retreat.

A visit to the Shilla History & Science Museum at the nearby Kyongju Folkcraft Village will give you a better sense of the sophisticated mathematical and engineering principles employed in the design and construction of Sokkuram. After studying the various cutaway models displayed in the museum, revisit the shrine in your mind's eye and you'll better appreciate the perfect balance and serenity of the site.

Imagine yourself stepping alone into the vestibule and quietly kneeling on the cool stone in front of the Buddha. For more than 1,100 years, this exquisitely sculpted figure has gazed steadfastly over Korea's coastal mountains to the sea, his right hand touching the earth in a gesture signifying firm resolve in the face of adversity — the bhumisparsha mudra. During much of that time, the sense of peace and security this statue was meant to convey has eluded the Korean people, who have endured a long history of violent internal conflict, social upheaval and repeated invasions from abroad. But at Sokkuram, Pulguksa and the other Shilla sites, South Korea has tapped into a rich vein of national pride, and unearthed a renewed sense of Korean identity from the ruins of ancient Kyongju.

Getting There: Korean Air, Asiana, Singapore Airlines, American, Northwest and United offer nonstop service from San Francisco or Los Angeles to Seoul. U.S. citizens may stay in Korea for up to 30 days without a visa. Kyongju has no airport of its own, but domestic flights on Korean or Asiana will get you to any of four nearby airports: Ulsan, P'ohang, Taegu or Pusan. Rail service is also available from Seoul to Kyongju, a ride of about 412 hours. Guided tours to Kyongju are easy to arrange through travel agencies in Seoul and other Korean cities, and can be a good option if your time is limited.

Orientation: Kyongju is surrounded by mountains in a valley near the southeastern coast of South Korea. Most of the major historical attractions are located near downtown Kyongju, around Pulguksa Temple to the southeast, and in the Mount Namsan area south of town. Most sites are open daily and charge entrance fees ranging from around 150 to 1,000 won (less than $1). The Kyongju National Museum is closed Mondays.

Getting Around: Central Kyongju, including the National Museum and other attractions, is compact and easily negotiated on foot or by bicycle (rental bikes are available at several shops in town and at the Pomun Lake Resort area). Bus and taxi services are available as well, including special sightseeing shuttles that stop at Pulguksa Temple, P'osokchong and other attractions. If you're not on a guided tour and you plan to visit sites spread over a wider area, consider hiring a car and driver from one of the local rental agencies (around 120,000 to 200,000 won or $100 to $175 per day). If you enjoy hiking, bring sturdy walking shoes for hikes in the Mount Namsan area and other more remote sites.

Accommodations: Lodging options range from simple and affordable Korean-style inns to a range of new tourist hotels at the Pomun Lake Resort development east of town. Rates vary according to the season and can be as much as 40 or 50 percent lower on off-season weekdays. In peak periods, you're likely to spend anywhere from about $50 to $175 a night for Western-style accommodations. If you can avoid peak periods, try phoning or faxing the properties directly to negotiate a lower rate.

The Kolon Hotel (tel. 82-561-746-9001, fax 82-561-746-6331) is located just outside the entrance to Pulguksa Temple and is a good base for sightseeing east of Kyongju. The 318-room property offers a choice of Western- or Korean-style rooms, plus natural hot spring spas, a golf course and special "Korean Traditional Royal Dinner" menus. Rates begin at 110,000 won (about $95) per night. In the same category are the Kyongju Hilton Hotel (tel. 82-561-745-7788, fax 82-561-745-7799) and the Hotel Hyundai (tel. 82-561-748-2233, fax 82-561-748-8234), both in the Pomun Lake area. Mid-range properties in the area include the Swiss Rosen Hotel (tel. 82-561-748-2233), the Pomun Grace Hotel (tel. 82-561-748-0404, fax 82-561-745-0409) and the Shillajang Motel (tel. 82-561-749-6622).

For a more intimate experience of Korean culture, try spending at least a night or two in a Korean-style ondol room. "Ondol" refers to the in-floor heating systems traditionally used in Korean houses. As in Japanese inns, you'll remove your shoes at the entrance, and you'll sleep on a thin mattress laid over the ondol floor, which is covered with a thickly varnished layer of oiled paper. Even higher-end hotels like the Kolon offer ondol rooms, but you can have a similar experience for less money by staying in a Korean-style inn, known as "yogwan," of which there are many in the Kyongju area (ask the local tourist office for booking assistance). Another option is to participate in a "minbak" or homestay program through LABO Korea (tel. 82-2-817-4625, fax 82-2-813-7047, http://www.labostay.or.kr) or the Korea Youth Exchange Promotion Association (tel. 82-2-817-6325, fax 82-2-817-6326, http://www. kyepa.or.kr). Both organizations will arrange homestays for travelers of all ages.

Information: Before you leave for Korea, contact the Korea National Tourism Organization, 3435 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1110, Los Angeles CA 90010, tel. (213) 382-3435, fax (213) 480-0483, e-mail kntola@mail.wcis.com. This office can provide maps and other information about the Kyongju area, plus general information about traveling in Korea, including useful pamphlets about Korean food and how to order in Korean restaurants. You can also find free information online at the KNTO Web site, http://www.knto.or.kr.

After arriving in Seoul, stop by the KNTO's main visitor center at 10 Ta-dong, Chung-gu, Seoul 100-180, tel. 02-757-0086. This office offers detailed information about all of Korea, plus free Internet access and an in-house travel agency. In Kyongju, tourist information centers are located at the train station, the main bus terminal, Pomun Lake Resort and outside Pulguksa Temple.